Women Climbing Pioneers of the Dolomites

Arrive in Cortina d’Ampezzo (1,224m / 4,016') on your own and check into your hotel (private transfer available on request). Cortina d’Ampezzo is a charming alpine resort town surrounded by stunning peaks. Host to the 1956 Winter Olympics, Cortina enjoys a reputation for great skiing in winter, and in the summer attracts hikers and climbers who challenge the rocky faces of the nearby mountains.

In the afternoon/morning you will meet your UIAGM/IFMGA Professional Mountain Guide for a trip briefing and orientation, and to check the equipment necessary for your exciting days in the Dolomites.   Your guide will select the most suited climb according to weather conditions and your ability.
Below is a list of the most important women pioneers and their best routes. These are all phenomenal climbs, well worth repeating. We invite you to take a trip into the dolomite walls by following the steps of history, in this case the history written by these women pioneers.

Each day you will tackle one (or more) climbs. Read on, and begin to dream about which of the routes pioneered by these incredible women you will climb on your Dolomites climbing adventure!

Hungarian Baronesses Rolanda and Ilona von Eötvös
These two sisters were nieces of Sissi, the Austrian Empress. Because of their delicate health their family sent them to Cortina d’Ampezzo and while there they hired the best mountain guides of the time, particularly Antonio Dimai and went on to do many notable ascents.

Tofana  di Rozes – Dimai-Eötvös (800m / 2,625', Grade 4+)
The Eötvös did the first ascent guided by Antonio Dimai in 1901. The climb was done in a single day and is an impressive accomplishment even for today’s standards. Climbing this route is a great alpine experience and adventure. The face is massive and the long traverse up high is extremely exposed and satisfying. The summit of Tofana offers incredible views of the surrounding area.

Grohmannspitze - Dimai-Eötvös (500m / 1,640', Grade 4+)
This is another masterpiece from the Eötvöses and Antonio Dimai. It was climbed in 1908. Despite the short approach this route sees very little traffic. It has very high quality rock and beautiful views of Sassolungo.

Beatrice Tomasson (1859-1947)
Daughter of an industrial baron, she was an expert horserider and was a private tutor for children of a number of Prussian generals and English Noble families. She started climbing in 1892 with Edward Lisle Strutt who would later become the expedition leader of the 1922 Everest expedition. She was a key figure in alpinism, pioneering a number of first ascents in the Pala group and a very important route in Marmolada south face.

Marmolada, South Face – Tomasson (650m / 2,133', Grade 5-)
Tomasson did the first ascent with the guides Michele Bettega and Bortolo Zagonel in 1901. This route is one of the great classic routes of the Dolomites, long and involved.  It was the first route up the south face of Marmolada, and it was Tomasson who did the groundwork, exploring the line with various guides until she finally succeeded with Bettega. They completed the climb in a single day, an impressive feat for the time.

The list of climbing routes continues, your guide will advise today's route. 
Käthe Bröske
Bröske was a contemporary to the Eötvös sisters and was also part of the same  Hungarian aristocracy. She was a pianist in Berlin and spent much time in the Dolomites mostly in Val di Fassa, where she did the first ascent of the Forth Sella Tower. In 1906 she did an early repeat of Marmolada south face and later accomplished impressive climbs near Cortina including the first ascent of the phenomenal Spigolo Fiames listed below.

Punta Fiames –Spigolo Fiames (400m / 1,312' 5), climbedwith Francesco Jori in 1909. It climbs a steep and obvious arete right above Cortina. The airy climbing high up on the ridge makes this climb very special.

Paula Wiesinger (1907-2001)
“La Paula”, as she was affectionately knownwas a sensational skier wining gold medals in world cup competitions and placing 16th in the Olympics. On top of that she was also a very keen climber doing many first ascents with her husband Hans Steger. Unlike many of the other women who did first ascents at the time she was not a client. In 1929 she did the first female ascent of Pelmo’s north face. She worked in a number of film projects with Luis Trenker and Leni Riefenstahl. At the age of 71 she climbed the normal route on Sassolungo.

Catinaccio, Torri di Vajolet, Torre Winkler – Steger (120m /394', Grade 6), climbedwith her husband Hans Steger, F. Mase Dari and A. Paluselli in 1929. This is one of the best climbs in Catinaccio, one that should not be underestimated.
Catinaccio, Punta Emma – Steger (250m / 820', Grade 5+), climbedwith with her husband Hans Steger in 1929. This is another very popular climb in Catinaccio.
Catinaccio, Rosegartenspitze – Steger (600m / 1,968', Grade 5+), climbedwith her husband Hans Steger, F. Mase Dari and S. Lechner in 1929. This is one of the most beautiful and longest routes in the Catinaccio group involving crack and face climbing in very solid and clean rock.

Breakfast and departure on your own (private transfer available on request)