Dolomite Climbing Pioneers & Classic Climbs

Guided

Luxury

from €3.040 on request

Climb on routes that shaped climbing history as you follow the vertical lines of pioneers who opened up climbing in the Dolomite Mountains. Discover for yourself why this beautiful mountain range is truly a playground for rock climbers and mountaineers!

  • Length 6 Days / 5 Nights
  • Trip Type Climbing
  • Activity Level Moderate to Challenging
  • Start / Finish Alta Badia
  • Dates This trip is available as a custom, private departure on dates of your choosing from mid June to mid September

Highlights

  • Discover the Dolomites – a playground for climbers from all over the world
  • Climb on routes first ascended by world-class climbers past and present who have left an indelible mark on the mighty peaks of the Dolomites
  • Explore some of the most scenic and best-known climbing routes in the world, following the footsteps of climbing pioneers who established these ground breaking climbs
  • Hone your climbing skills on the extremely featured, vertical rock walls of the Dolomites

 

OVERVIEW

Some of the greatest rock climbing in the world is located in the Dolomite Mountains. And with the beauty that these mountains provide, it’s no wonder it was a desirable range for early climbers to explore! On this vertical itinerary, you’ll have the opportunity retrace the routes of Dolomite climbing pioneers on some of the most classic climbs these mountains have to offer. Reinhold Messner. Riccardo Cassin. Angelo Dibona. These are just a few of the great climbers who put up first ascents in this vertical landscape!

There are so many climbs in the Dolomites to choose from it’s hard to know where to start. That’s where we come in! On this unique, flexible itinerary, we would like to introduce you to some of the finest classic Dolomite climbs by following the steps of history, by climbing the routes first ascended by its finest and best known climbers. The day-to-day itinerary below is just a place to start… If there is a specific climber you’d like to follow, or a specific route you want to explore, let us know and we’ll customize a climbing adventure just for you!

It’s a climber’s dream to come to the Dolomites at least once in their life and to follow their predecessors on routes of these pioneers! Join us!

Day by Day

Climb on routes that shaped climbing history as you follow the vertical lines of pioneers who opened up climbing in the Dolomite Mountains. Discover for yourself why this beautiful mountain range is truly a playground for rock climbers and mountaineers!


Day 1 ~ Arrive in Alta Badia 
Arrive in Alta Badia on your own (private transfer available on request) and check into your hotel. Located between 1,400 and 2,700 meters (4,593-8,858'), in a large valley surrounded all around by the gorgeous peaks of the Dolomites, Alta Badia is truly the “heart of the Dolomites.” Geographically in the South Tyrol (Südtirol), this area was part of Austria prior to the First World War. Here you’ll find unique mountain scenery with villages rich in natural beauty and ancient traditions, witness the simple everyday life of the local people (the “Ladini”), as well as the customs and traditions of the ancient Ladin culture.  
In the afternoon you will meet your UIAGM/IFMGA Professional Mountain Guide for a trip briefing and orientation, and to check the climbing equipment you will use for your exciting days in the Dolomites.
D... Hotel in Alta Badia


Days 2 & 3 ~ Climbing on the Sella Massif above Vallon
Before you begin climbing this morning, your guide will give you a lesson on climbing technique, equipment use, and safety. You’ll spend your first two days climbing two or three routes on the Sella Massif, with the first day as a warm up to prepare you for a more challenging route on day two.

The Sella Massif is an enormous, fortress-shaped group of mountains. The mountain lies between the four Ladin valleys of the Dolomites:  Alta Badia, Val Gardena, Val di Fassa, and Livinallongo del Col di Lana. The Sella is truly a haven for outdoor sports. In the eastern area of this extensive massif, there a small group of three beautiful and little known peaks that enclose the north side of the Vallon basin: Sasso delle Nove, Sass dal Diesc, and Piz da Lec de Boe. From below, these three peaks create a sundial, visible from the village of Colfosco / Kolfuschg. All three of the peaks offer very good climbing routes, which is where you will spend your first two days climbing! 

Sella Massif, Vallon, Sasso delle Nove – Castiglioni-Detassis 1934 (250m / 820', Grade 4+)
This climb offers stupendous chimney climbing on good rock, and is likely the Vallon’s most popular climb.

Sella Massif, Vallon, Piz da Lec – Castiglioni-Detassis 1934 (200m / 656', Grade 4, 6 pitches)
This is a very interesting route, and grows as you climb higher and higher, with the best climbing near the very top. It includes chimney, slab, crack, and overhang features, to make for an exciting climb! The climb is to the left of Via Ferrata Piz da Lech, and the approach and descent are relatively easy and unexposed. 

Sella Massif, Vallon, Sasso delle Dieci – Castiglioni-Detassis 1934 (290m / 951', Grade 4+)
This, your third climbing option for the first two days, follows a classic dolomite style chimney, with many spectacular sections. The descent is also very interesting, with many beautiful and exposed sections.

All three of the routes were pioneered by Ettore Castiglioni and Bruno Detassis in early 1934. The routes Castiglioni and Detassis climbed together are well known for their beauty, as is to be expected from two individuals with such a degree of interest and concern for the aesthetics and style of their climbs.

At the end of your climbing day, you have a short hike down to your rifugio for the next two nights.
B,D... Rifugio


Day 4 ~ Climbing on the Sella Towers
The Sella Towers are a magnificent set of five distinct towers set at the westernmost part of the Sella Massif, the opposite side of where you have been climbing the past two days. These Towers are one of the most popular climbing destinations in Dolomites, both because of their scenic beauty and proximity to the Sella Pass – and consequently quick approach, and offer countless climbing routes.

The Second Sella Tower, which you will climb on today, is the second from the south. It is 250-meters (820') tall, has a broad north face, and a sharp equally high northwest ridge. It is distinguished from the First Tower by a deep notch between the two.

Kasnapoff - II Torre del Sella NW Ridge ­– Kasnapoff-Zelger 1913 (345m / 1,150', Grade 4+, 12 pitches)
One of the best classic climbs on the Second Sella Tower is Via Kasnapoff. In 1913 Mrs. von Kasnapoff and M. Zelger ascended the west edge of second Sella Tower. This became known as a great outing on a “highly satisfactory classic route, providing an exciting climbing up a superb steep wall on excellent carved "dolomia" rich in holds.” At first the climb runs on the right side of a steep wall facing north. The second section of the route runs nearby the ridge, facing northwest. Different variants exist, and the climb requires a bit of instinct to find the correct route. The descent includes a mixture of hiking, down-climbing, and rappelling (abseiling).

In the afternoon, drive back to Alta Badia and check into your hotel. 
B,D… Hotel in Alta Badia


Day 5 ~ Climbing on the Torre Grande di Falzarego
The Torre Grande di Falzarego  (2,550m / 8,366') is a dolomite tower belonging to Fanis Group, near Passo Falzarego. The Torre Grande has a beautiful slender shape, with a grey and compact west face and a higher steep yellow and grey southeast face.

Spigolo Dibona – Dibona-Dibona-De Stefana 1934 (650m / 2,130', Grade 5)
The climbing route Spigolo Dibona is undoubtedly a must-do route, both because it is so enjoyable, and because it is a way to remember and celebrate the great, skillful climber Angelo Dibona. This classic Dolomites route provides a magnificent climb up the southeast wall, and offers a combination of crack, slab, face, traverse, and chimney climbing. This may be the finest climb of Torre Grande, a great climb on a sunny face.

In the afternoon, transfer back to your hotel.
B,D… Hotel in Alta Badia


Day 6 ~ Depart
Breakfast and departure on your own (private transfer available on request).
B


Trip itinerary may vary based on weather conditions, fitness levels and climbing abilities of participants, and/or the recommendations of your guide.



EXTEND YOUR ADVENTURE!
You've come all this way, why not stay a little longer? Dolomite Mountains offers fantastic extensions that you can enjoy before or after your trip in the Dolomites. Explore VeniceVeronaLake GardaFlorence, or Milan, or any of the many other magical places found throughout Italy. There's no more perfect way to recover from jet lag upon arrival, or delay your return to reality at the end of your trip!

Cost

Guided Trip for grade IV - IV+ 
From € 3.120 per person (2 participants)

Guided Trip from grade V on request

UPGRADE your hotel to 4-star or 5-star, please contact us for a quotation


Cost Includes:

  • Trip briefing
  • Logistics and map of the area
  • 3 nights accommodation in hotel in Alta Badia
  • 2 nights accommodation in charming rifugio (shared dormitory)
  • All breakfasts and dinners
  • 1 Local English Speaking Professional UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide for 4 days
  • Technical climbing equipment
  • Local tourist tax
  • Italian VAT tax

Airport transfers available on request.

Accommodation

Want to learn more about our Luxury Hotels?            
Luxury accommodations in the Dolomites combine the ultimate in comfort and refinement. From five star hotels, Michelin star-rated restaurants, and pampering spas, just because you are in the mountains does not mean you cannot have a truly luxe Italian experience in the Dolomites! From the chic town of Cortina d’Ampezzo, a popular destination for the rich and famous, to the quiet and discreet luxury of San Cassiano in Alta Badia, you will find accommodations with credentials ranging from membership in the exclusive Relais & Châteaux to The Leading Hotels of the World! 

Want to learn more about our Hotels and B&Bs?
The Dolomites has a multi-faceted culture and history that is reflected in each village we visit, and we make sure to provide you with the most authentic experience of the region possible through the hotels and B&Bs we offer. Hotels and chalets are available in the larger villages, while agriturismos (working farms with accommodations similar to B&Bs) are more common in rural areas. And we always make sure you have access to inspired regional cuisine, and the best panoramas you can get in the Dolomites!

Want to learn more about our Mountain Inns & Rifugi?            
Rifugi – or mountain huts in English – are the classic accommodation for hikers, climbers, mountaineers, and ski mountaineers in the Alps. Set in spectacular locations high in the Dolomites, rifugi are accessible only on foot (with a few exceptions that are reachable by car). These marvelous establishments are open primarily in the summer, with a select few in winter, and offer meals and sleeping facilities.

The Dolomite rifugi are considered the best in the Alps. While some are dormitory style with bunk beds, many meet the standard of a simple guest house with private rooms and en-suite bathrooms, and each has its own unique character and charm. Bedding and linens are provided, hot showers are available, and meals are served in common dining areas – like a small mountain inn set high in the mountains with the most incredible vistas in the Dolomites. Whether you’re hiking in summer or skiing in winter, an overnight rifugio stay is not to miss on a Dolomite holiday.

To learn even more about rifugi in the Dolomites, check out our Rifugios in the Dolomites article, and learn about one of the best ways to experience these incredible mountains!

More info

Climbing Pioneers
There is so much climbing, and so much climbing history in the Dolomite Mountains! The above itinerary is just a starting point. If there is a specific climber you’d like to follow, or a specific route you wan to climb, let us know and we’ll customize a climbing adventure just for you. We’d also be happy to provide you a list of some of the Dolomite’s most prominent climbing pioneers, their background, and a few of their best routes – climbs that we thought you might enjoy.

Climbing route difficulty and skill levels:
Level 1: Beginner level, climbing grades 2 to 4+
Level 2: Advanced level, climbing grades 5- to 6-
Level 3: Expert level, climbing grades 6- to 7- 

Note: Beginner climbers in good physical condition can climb and enjoy routes with difficulties to grade 4+ (UIAA scale), while routes from grade 5 and higher should be reserved for those with previous climbing experience. See the grading section under Rock Climbing Trip Activity Levels. We will help you choose the best possible selection of routes according to your interests and skill level.

Guided: Guide Ratio 1-2 climbers per guide

Safety awareness & training:
Adventurous activities in the mountains have their dangers. These can never be removed altogether, but they can be minimized. At Dolomite Mountains, our aim is to provide you with a thrilling holiday directed with maximum attention to your safety and that of others. We don't just blindly let you follow our experienced leaders. We give you the opportunity to learn mountain-craft skills and understand about the hazards, how to minimize the risk, and how to cope with incidents should they happen.

 

Check out our high definition videos in: SUMMER VIDEO GALLERY!

Still want more? Why not extend your adventure!
Dolomite Mountains offers fantastic extensions that you can enjoy before or after your trip in the Dolomites. Explore VeniceVeronaLake GardaFlorence, or Milan, or any of the many other magical places found throughout Italy. There's no more perfect way to recover from jet lag upon arrival, or delay your return to reality at the end of your trip!

Group Trip Dates

Trip name   Trip dates   Min persons   Trip status   Price    
25-30 Jul
2017
4
Available
€ 1020
27 Jul - 3 Aug
2017
4
Limited space
€ 1260
8-14 Aug
2017
4
Sold out
€ 1640
15-21 Aug
2017
4
Sold out
€ 2860
16-20 Aug
2017
4
Limited space
€ 910
16-21 Aug
2017
4
Sold out
€ 1020
26 Sep - 1 Oct
2017
4
Limited space
€ 2860
26 Sep - 1 Oct
2017
4
Limited space
€ 1640
2-8 Oct
2017
4
Available
€ 2860
3-10 Oct
2017
4
Available
€ 1640
3-7 Oct
2017
4
Sold out
€ 910
10-15 Oct
2017
4
Available
€ 1020
21-27 Feb
2018
4
Available
€ 2.070
26-31 Feb
2018
4
Limited space
€ 1.270
25 Mar - 2 Apr
2018
4
Available
€ 2.440
25 Mar - 2 Apr
2018
4
Available
€ 1600
4-9 Apr
2018
4
Available
€ 1350
11-17 Apr
2018
4
Available
€ 2.070
18-23 Apr
2018
4
Available
€ 2.440
18-23 Apr
2018
4
Sold out
€ 1.270
17-22 Jul
2018
4
Sold out
€ 1020
22-27 Aug
2018
4
Available
€ 1460
1-5 Aug
2018
4
Sold out
€ 910
7-13 Aug
2018
4
Available
€ 2860
7-13 Aug
2018
4
Available
€ 1640
8-12 Aug
2018
4
Limited space
€ 910
15-22 Aug
2018
4
Available
€ 1640
25-31 Sep
2018
4
Available
€ 2860
1-8 Oct
2018
4
Available
€ 1860
8-12 Oct
2018
4
Available
€ 910
16-21 Oct
2018
4
Available
€ 1020
27 Feb - 2 Mar
2019
4
Available
€ 2.070
27 Feb - 1 Mar
2019
4
Available
€ 2.440
3-8 Mar
2019
4
Available
€ 2.440
17-22 Apr
2019
4
Available
€ 2.440
17-22 Apr
2019
4
Available
€ 1.270
24-30 Apr
2019
4
Available
€ 2.070