Dolomites Pioneers Climbing Routes

Guided

Luxury

from €3.040 on request

Climb the routes that shaped climbing the history in the Dolomites.

  • Length 6 Days / 5 Nights
  • Trip Type Climbing
  • Activity Level Challenging
  • Start / Finish Alta Badia
  • Dates This trip is available as a custom, private departure on dates of your choosing from mid June to mid September

Highlights

  • Climb some of the most scenic and best-known routes in the world, following the footsteps of the pioneers who ventured into the unknown to accomplish ground breaking climbs in the early 1900s
  • Enjoy climbing in an area that is a playground for climbers from all over the world
  • The Dolomites’ steep and extremely featured rock allows you to progress easily even on vertical ground

 

OVERVIEW

The Dolomites are a rock climber’s paradise. Sought after by climbers from around the world, there is terrain for every experience level here. What’s more, they are an important point of reference for climbers – the classic and modern routes here have made history in the world of traditional climbing.

On this unique, flexible itinerary, we would like to introduce you to some of the finest classic Dolomite climbs by following the steps of history, by climbing the routes first ascended by its finest and best known climbers. From Reinhold Messner to Riccardo Cassin, world-class climbers past and present have left an indelible mark on these peaks.

Day by Day

It’s a climber’s dream to come to the Dolomites at least once in their life and to follow their predecessors on Pioneers routes. Program might differ in sequence according to the latest weather forecast. You can do some more climbing or hiking on your leisure days.


Day 1 Arrival in Alta Badia
Arrive in Alta Badia on your own (private transfer available on request) and check into your Hotel. Located in a large valley surrounded all around by the gorgeous peaks of the Dolomites, Alta Badia is truly the “heart of the Dolomites.” Geographically in the South Tyrol (Südtirol), this area was part of Austria prior to the First World War. Here you’ll find unique mountain scenery with villages rich in natural beauty and ancient traditions, witness the simple everyday life of the local people (the “Ladini”), as well as the customs and traditions of the ancient Ladin culture.
In the late afternoon meet your UIAGM/IFMGA Professional Mountain Guide for a trip briefing and orientation, and to check the climbing equipment you will use for your exciting days in the Dolomites.
D... Hotel in Alta Badia


Days 2 & 3 ~ Sella Massif and Vallon
Start your first climbing day as a warm up and be ready for a more challenging route tomorrow.

ETTORE CASTIGLIONI (1908 - 1944)
Castiglioni was born to a rich Milanese family, received a law degree, and was a music and art lover. He became one of the strongest alpinists in the period right before the Second World War. He was much more interested in exploration than searching for difficulty, and in his short life climbed over 200 new routes across the Alps.

BRUNO DETASSIS (1910 - 2008)
Detassiswas an alpinist and guide with a very impressive climbing curriculum and was well known for his profound humanity. When he was at his prime, he never used the heroic tones that were so widespread in climbing circles. He always showed modesty and respect for the mountains, as well as for people and life. His search was much more focused on the beauty of a line, the style in which an ascent was accomplished than in the mere difficulty. 

As it is to be expected from two individuals with such a degree of interest and concern for the aesthetics and style of their climbs, the routes Castiglioni and Detassisclimbed together are well known for their beauty.

Sella Massif, Vallon, Sasso delle Nove – Castiglioni-Detassis (250m, Grade 4+), in 1934. It involves stupendous chimney climbing in good rock. This is likely the Vallon’s most popular climb.

Sella Massif, Vallon, Piz da Lec – Castiglioni-Detassis (200m, Grade 4). Also climbed in 1934 this is a very tortuous albeit interesting route, that grows as one climbs higher and higher, with the best climbing near the very top.

Sella Massif, Vallon, Sasso delle Dieci – Castiglioni-Detassis (290m, Grade 4+). 1934 was a very productive year for the Castiglioni-Detassis team, and this route is also from that period. It climbs a classic dolomite style chimney, with many spectacular sections. The descent is also very interesting, with many beautiful and exposed sections.

B,D... Rifugio


Day 4 ~ Kasnapoff (345m /  1.150’, IV+)
After breakfast climb another classical route of the Dolomites. In 1913 Mrs. von Kasnapoff and M. Zelger ascended the west edge of 2nd Sella Tower. A great outing on a highly satisfactory classic route, providing an exciting climbing up a superb steep wall on excellent carved "dolomia" rich in holds. Different variants exist and the climb requires a bit of istinct to find the correct route.
In the afternoon drive back to Alta Badia and check into your hotel.
B,D… Hotel in Alta Badia


Day 5 ~ Spigolo Dibona (650m / 2.130’ , V-)  ANGELO DIBONA (1879 - 1956)
Born in Cortina d'Ampezzo, Dibona was one of the best mountaineers of his time, making many important first ascents together with Angelo Dimai and L. Rizzi. He was known across the Alps and was one of the few people at the time that could make a living from mountain guiding, being one of the most requested guides in the Dolomites. Some of his clients were the Belgian king, the Hungarian countesses Ilona and Rolanda Eötvös, and the industrious Max and Guido Mayer from Wien. The Mayers wrote many accounts of the climbs they did with Dibona, and this helped establish him as a legendary climber and guide. After the war he kept working as a guide into his 60s. He completed more than 70 first ascents across the Alps, many of which were cutting edge at the time.
The climbing route Spigolo Dibona is undoubtedly a must-do for every mountaineer, both because it is absolutely enjoyable and it's a way to remember and celebrate such a great, skillful climber as Angelo Dibona.
In the afternoon transfer back to the Hotel.
B,D… Hotel in Alta Badia


Day 6 ~ Depart
Breakfast and departure on your own (private transfer available on request).
B


Trip itinerary may vary based on weather conditions, fitness levels and climbing abilities of participants, and/or the recommendations of your guide.



EXTEND YOUR ADVENTURE!
You've come all this way, why not stay a little longer? Dolomite Mountains offers fantastic extensions that you can enjoy before or after your trip in the Dolomites. Explore VeniceVeronaLake GardaFlorence, or Milan, or any of the many other magical places found throughout Italy. There's no more perfect way to recover from jet lag upon arrival, or delay your return to reality at the end of your trip!

Cost

Guided Trip for grade IV - IV+ 
From € 3.040 per person (2 participants)

Guided Trip from grade V on request

UPGRADE your hotel to 4-star or 5-star, please contact us for a quotation


Cost Includes:

  • Trip briefing
  • Logistics and map of the area
  • 3 nights accommodation in Hotel in Alta Badia
  • 2 nights accommodataion in charming rifugio (shared dormitory)
  • All breakfasts and dinners
  • 1 Local English Speaking Professional UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide for 4 days
  • Technical climbing equipment
  • Local tourist tax
  • Italian VAT tax

Airport transfers available on request.

Accommodation

Want to learn more about our Luxury Hotels?            
Luxury accommodations in the Dolomites combine the ultimate in comfort and refinement. From five star hotels, Michelin star-rated restaurants, and pampering spas, just because you are in the mountains does not mean you cannot have a truly luxe Italian experience in the Dolomites! From the chic town of Cortina d’Ampezzo, a popular destination for the rich and famous, to the quiet and discreet luxury of San Cassiano in Alta Badia, you will find accommodations with credentials ranging from membership in the exclusive Relais & Châteaux to The Leading Hotels of the World! 

Want to learn more about our Hotels and B&Bs?
The Dolomites has a multi-faceted culture and history that is reflected in each village we visit, and we make sure to provide you with the most authentic experience of the region possible through the hotels and B&Bs we offer. Hotels and chalets are available in the larger villages, while agriturismos (working farms with accommodations similar to B&Bs) are more common in rural areas. And we always make sure you have access to inspired regional cuisine, and the best panoramas you can get in the Dolomites!

Want to learn more about our Mountain Inns & Rifugi?            
Rifugi – or mountain huts in English – are the classic accommodation for hikers, climbers, mountaineers, and ski mountaineers in the Alps. Set in spectacular locations high in the Dolomites, rifugi are accessible only on foot (with a few exceptions that are reachable by car). These marvelous establishments are open primarily in the summer, with a select few in winter, and offer meals and sleeping facilities.

The Dolomite rifugi are considered the best in the Alps. While some are dormitory style with bunk beds, many meet the standard of a simple guest house with private rooms and en-suite bathrooms, and each has its own unique character and charm. Bedding and linens are provided, hot showers are available, and meals are served in common dining areas – like a small mountain inn set high in the mountains with the most incredible vistas in the Dolomites. Whether you’re hiking in summer or skiing in winter, an overnight rifugio stay is not to miss on a Dolomite holiday.

To learn even more about rifugi in the Dolomites, check out our Rifugios in the Dolomites article, and learn about one of the best ways to experience these incredible mountains!

More info

Climbing route difficulty and skill levels:
Level 2: Advanced level, climbing grades 5- to 6-
Level 3: Expert level, climbing grades 6- to 7- 

Guided: Guide Ratio 1-2 climbers per guide

Still want more? Why not extend your adventure!
Dolomite Mountains offers fantastic extensions that you can enjoy before or after your trip in the Dolomites. Explore VeniceVeronaLake GardaFlorence, or Milan, or any of the many other magical places found throughout Italy. There's no more perfect way to recover from jet lag upon arrival, or delay your return to reality at the end of your trip!

Group Trip Dates

Trip name   Trip dates   Min persons   Trip status   Price    
25-30 Jul
2017
4
Available
€ 970
27 Jul - 3 Aug
2017
4
Limited space
€ 1260
8-14 Aug
2017
4
Sold out
€ 1640
15-21 Aug
2017
4
Sold out
€ 2790
16-21 Aug
2017
4
Sold out
€ 970
16-20 Aug
2017
4
Limited space
€ 910
26 Sep - 1 Oct
2017
4
Limited space
€ 2790
26 Sep - 1 Oct
2017
4
Limited space
€ 1640
2-8 Oct
2017
4
Available
€ 2790
3-7 Oct
2017
4
Sold out
€ 910
3-10 Oct
2017
4
Available
€ 1560
10-15 Oct
2017
4
Available
€ 970
21-27 Feb
2018
4
Limited space
€ 1990
26-31 Feb
2018
4
Limited space
€ 1270
25 Mar - 2 Apr
2018
4
Available
€ 2290
25 Mar - 2 Apr
2018
4
Available
€ 1600
4-9 Apr
2018
4
Available
€ 1350
11-17 Apr
2018
4
Available
€ 1990
18-23 Apr
2018
4
Available
€ 2290
18-23 Apr
2018
4
Limited space
€ 1270
17-22 Jul
2018
4
Limited space
€ 970
22-27 Aug
2018
4
Available
€ 1460
1-5 Aug
2018
4
Limited space
€ 910
7-13 Aug
2018
4
Available
€ 1640
7-13 Aug
2018
4
Limited space
€ 2790
15-22 Aug
2018
4
Available
€ 1560
25-31 Sep
2018
4
Available
€ 2790
1-8 Oct
2018
4
Available
€ 1780
8-12 Oct
2018
4
Available
€ 910
16-21 Oct
2018
4
Available
€ 970