Rock-Climbing in the Dolomites

Trip Highlights

• Climb on some of the most famous routes in the world
• Single pitch sports routes, many long moderate alpine routes up to 800m long and imposing big wall routes such as the north face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo arguably one of the great north walls within the Alps.
• Enjoy climbing in the 5 Torri area the playground for climbers from all over the world

The Dolomites are the largest limestone climbing area in the Alps situated south of the Austrian/Italian border. Many of the peaks are over 3000m+ high, giving long and demanding big wall routes up to 800m long. Some routes can be over 20-pitches long, however the vast majority of them can be done in a single days outing or with an overnight stay in a mountain hut or lodge.

Classic mountaineering and rock-climbing coexist together almost in every wall along climbing itineraries that go from 20 to 1000 meters (vertical drop) and with any level of difficulty.

The area is quite complex and made up of a large number of separate groups of peaks and walls. Connecting these groups are winding mountain roads climbing over passes, through beautiful alpine meadows, and descending abruptly deep into valleys. Small towns are nestled in among these peaks. Some, like Cortina d'Ampezzo, Val Gardena and Alta Badia, are quite well known as beautiful resorts, active in both summer and winter.

The Dolomites are particularly appealing to the pure rock climber when compared to their western Alps neighbors for the following reasons:
Impressive vertical limestone rock rising out of Alpine meadows; the majority of the routes can be climbed in a single day or with an overnight stay in a mountain hut or lodge;  no ice fields or glaciers to cross to access the routes.

A good way of spending a week climbing is to alternate long climbs (which can be very long indeed) with shorter ones or with the occasional via ferrata and establish a central base in a hotel or camp area, and make excursions from there.

The terrain in the Dolomites is steep and complex. But the rock is amazingly featured and seemingly unclimbable walls can go free at only moderate levels of difficulty. There is something for everyone. Some classic climbs, such as the traverse of the Sella Towers, can go free at only a moderate grade. There are a great number of routes in the "middle" grades from about 5.6 to 5.9. Whatever you climb, the views, the exposure and the fantastic convoluted topography are unforgettable.

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TRIP DETAILS
Length: min 2 days of climbing

Activity level:  beginners (follow moderate and lead easy multi-pitch climbs) to advanced (lead moderate multi-pitch climbs on gear self sufficiently)

Maximum Ratio: 1 or 2 climbers per guide

Cost: Custom trip on request   

Includes: Accommodations - from b&b to 5* hotel-, UIAGM/IFMGA professional mountain guide, climbing equipment, local transportation

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The Dolomites are particularly appealing to the pure rock climber for the following reasons when compared to their western Alps neighbours:

• Impressive vertical limestone rock rising out of Alpine meadows
• Relatively short walk-ins from the road to the base of the climb - this can be typically less than an hour
• Majority of the routes can be climbed in a single day, reducing the amount of kit to be carried on the route, or with an overnight stay in a mountain hut or lodge
• No ice fields or glaciers to cross to access the routes.

The range and style of rock climbing routes that can be experienced in the Dolomites is unique and varies from

• Single pitch sports routes
• Lots of long moderate alpine routes up to 800m long
• Imposing big wall routes such as the north face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo arguably one of the great north walls within the Alps.

PRIVATE GUIDING: The Dolomites can be adapted to the one who is beginning to climb as to the expert climber who will find fantastic modern and historical itineraries.
Generally the best approach to climbing here is to establish a central base in a hotel or camp area, and make excursions from there.

We enjoy optimal flexibility.
Contact us so we can accommodate your request!

GREAT DOLOMITES CLASSIC ROUTES.
Among some of the most famous rock faces are the Sella, Marmolada, Civetta, Torre Trieste, Torri del Vajolet in the Catinaccio, Cinque Torri , Lagazuoi, Tre Cime di Lavaredo and Tofana di Rozes.

The Sella Towers & Piz Ciavazes:
Short approaches, easy descents, well-protected routes and  the verticality of the Towers and surrounding walls very impressive.
Near the Sella Pass is the Sassolungo area, where the routes are a much more serious undertaking and have an "alpine" experience about them.

The Falzarego Pass (between Cortina and Alta Badia), offers plenty of south-facing mid-grade routes; with short easy approaches; uncomplicated descents; and solid, well-protected routes.

At 3225m, the Tofana di Rozes dominates the view around the Falzarego Pass. The huge, steep and expansive south face catches the eye and draws the climber in. The 800m South Face route, a big mountaineering route was the first route up the south face in 1901. The route combines pitches of climbing on solid rock interspersed with long sections of loose rock scrambling.
Many options to climb such as the Primo Spigolo di Rozes

Cinque Torri:  There are routes of all difficulties from single and up to six pitch climbs. It is a good place to get used to the rock or simply to have a relaxing day or to push the technical difficulty on harder climbs.

Tre cime di Lavaredo:
The north face of Cima Grande (450m & 16-pitches long) is one of the great alpine north faces and is breathtakingly steep - a real big wall.  Some of the hardest routes in the area are found here with such landmark climbs as the Comici Route on the North Face of the Cima Grande, first climbed in 1933.
Climbs such as the Mosca Chimneys on the South Face (5.4), the Dülfer route on the West Face (5.8) and the Spigolo Giallo (Yellow Edge), a famous route at about 5.10+.

The highest mountain in the Dolomites is the Marmolada, with its impressive 800m high and 3km wide south facing limestone wall. All of the routes on this face are long and serious, and unique to the Dolomites, may take longer than a day to complete.