FINANCIAL TIMES - Couloirs and Michelin stars in Italy’s Dolomites

In the dark cellar beneath the hotel Ciasa Salares, the owner Stefan Wieser was uncorking bottles with abandon. “So, I thought you might like to take a little panorama of Italian wines,” he said, gesturing at the bottles on the wooden shelves all around us and at the table full of wine glasses, sparkling in the candlelight. There were some 16,000 bottles, perhaps 50 glasses, four of us; a long night of gluttony stretched ahead.