Women Climbing Pioneers of the Dolomites

Guided

Luxury

from €1.280 on request

Climb the historic routes put up by Beatrice Tomasson and other women pioneer climbers

  • Length From 2 Days / 1 Night
  • Trip Type Climbing
  • Activity Level Challenging
  • Start / Finish Alta Badia or Cortina d'Ampezzo
  • Dates This trip is available as a custom, private departure on dates of your choosing from mid June to October

Highlights

  • Climb on some of the most scenic and best known routes in the world, follow in the footsteps of the first women climbers
  • Climb an area known to be a playground for climbers from all over the world
  • Climb with ease up the Dolomites' steep and extremely featured rock


OVERVIEW

Some major contributions in the early climbing history of the Dolomites came from women.  In early 1900s there was a handful of ambitious women climbers in Cortina d'Ampezzo, among which Ilona and Rolanda von Eötvös and Käthe Bröske, who were vying for new routes. Some of them were instrumental in a number of first ascents. Such was the case of Beatrice Tomasson, who studied the south face of Marmolada for several years with a  number of different guides until she succeeded with Michele Bettega. Tomasson's first ascent of Marmolada's south face was a major step forward in climbing, as was the ascent of Tofana's south face by the Eötvös.

Day by Day

Below is a list of the most important women pioneers and their best routes. These are all phenomenal climbs, well worth repeating. We invite you to take a trip into the dolomite walls by following the steps of history, in this case the history written by these women pioneers.

Each day you will tackle one (or more) climbs. Read on, and begin to dream about which of the routes pioneered by these incredible women you will climb on your Dolomites climbing adventure! 



Hungarian Baronesses Rolanda and Ilona von Eötvös
These two sisters were nieces of Sissi, the Austrian Empress. Because of their delicate health their family sent them to Cortina d’Ampezzo and while there they hired the best mountain guides of the time, particularly Antonio Dimai and went on to do many notable ascents.

Tofana  di Rozes – Dimai-Eötvös (800m / 2,625', Grade 4+). The Eötvös did the first ascent guided by Antonio Dimai in 1901. The climb was done in a single day and is an impressive accomplishment even for today’s standards. Climbing this route is a great alpine experience and adventure. The face is massive and the long traverse up high is extremely exposed and satisfying. The summit of Tofana offers incredible views of the surrounding area.

Grohmannspitze - Dimai-Eötvös (500m / 1,640', Grade 4+). This is another masterpiece from the Eötvöses and Antonio Dimai. It was climbed in 1908. Despite the short approach this route sees very little traffic. It has very high quality rock and beautiful views of Sassolungo.


Beatrice Tomasson (1859-1947)
Daughter of an industrial baron, she was an expert horserider and was a private tutor for children of a number of Prussian generals and English Noble families. She started climbing in 1892 with Edward Lisle Strutt who would later become the expedition leader of the 1922 Everest expedition. She was a key figure in alpinism, pioneering a number of first ascents in the Pala group and a very important route in Marmolada south face.

Marmolada, South Face – Tomasson (650m / 2,133', Grade 5-). Tomasson did the first ascent with the guides Michele Bettega and Bortolo Zagonel in 1901. This route is one of the great classic routes of the Dolomites, long and involved.  It was the first route up the south face of Marmolada, and it was Tomasson who did the groundwork, exploring the line with various guides until she finally succeeded with Bettega. They completed the climb in a single day, an impressive feat for the time.


Käthe Bröske
Bröske was a contemporary to the Eötvös sisters and was also part of the same Hungarian aristocracy. She was a pianist in Berlin and spent much time in the Dolomites mostly in Val di Fassa, where she did the first ascent of the Forth Sella Tower. In 1906 she did an early repeat of Marmolada south face and later accomplished impressive climbs near Cortina including the first ascent of the phenomenal Spigolo Fiames listed below.

Punta Fiames –Spigolo Fiames (400m / 1,312' 5), climbedwith Francesco Jori in 1909. It climbs a steep and obvious arete right above Cortina. The airy climbing high up on the ridge makes this climb very special.


Paula Wiesinger (1907-2001)
“La Paula”, as she was affectionately knownwas a sensational skier wining gold medals in world cup competitions and placing 16th in the Olympics. On top of that she was also a very keen climber doing many first ascents with her husband Hans Steger. Unlike many of the other women who did first ascents at the time she was not a client. In 1929 she did the first female ascent of Pelmo’s north face. She worked in a number of film projects with Luis Trenker and Leni Riefenstahl. At the age of 71 she climbed the normal route on Sassolungo.

Catinaccio, Torri di Vajolet, Torre Winkler – Steger (120m /394', Grade 6), climbedwith her husband Hans Steger, F. Mase Dari and A. Paluselli in 1929. This is one of the best climbs in Catinaccio, one that should not be underestimated.

Catinaccio, Punta Emma – Steger (250m / 820', Grade 5+), climbedwith with her husband Hans Steger in 1929. This is another very popular climb in Catinaccio.

Catinaccio, Rosegartenspitze – Steger (600m / 1,968', Grade 5+), climbedwith her husband Hans Steger, F. Mase Dari and S. Lechner in 1929. This is one of the most beautiful and longest routes in the Catinaccio group involving crack and face climbing in very solid and clean rock.


Note: Beginner climbers in good physical shape can climb and enjoy routes with difficulties to grade 4+ (UIAA scale), while routes from grade 5 and higher should be reserved for those with previous climbing experience. See the grading section below under our Rock Climbing Trip Difficulty Levels. We will help you choose the best possible selection of routes according to your interests and skill level. 


EXTEND YOUR ADVENTURE!
You've come all this way, why not stay a little longer? Dolomite Mountains offers fantastic extensions that you can enjoy before or after your trip in the Dolomites. Explore VeniceVeronaLake GardaFlorence, or Milan, or any of the many other magical places found throughout Italy. There's no more perfect way to recover from jet lag upon arrival, or delay your return to reality at the end of your trip!

Cost

Guided Trip for grade IV - IV+ 
From € 1.280 per person (minimum 2 participants)

Guided Trip from grade V 
From € 1.420 per person (minimum 2 participants)

UPGRADE your hotel to 4-star or 5-star, please contact us for a quotation


Cost Includes:

  • Trip briefing
  • Logistics and map of the area
  • 3 nights accommodation in B&B in Alta Badia or Cortina (3-star)
  • All breakfasts
  • Local English, German, and/or Italian speaking Professional UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide for 2 days
  • Technical climbing equipment
  • Local tourist tax
  • Italian VAT tax

Airport transfers available on request.

Helicopter Sightseeing & Airport Transfers – There's Nothing Else Like It!
Take to the skies for an aerial look at the spectacular Dolomite Mountains, and make memories to last a lifetime! Whether on a panoramic sightseeing ride or an airport transfer, you'll appreciate a bird's eye view of the stunning scenery aboard state-of-the-art single engine helicopters. With over 30 years in operation, our experienced pilots and ground crew employ the utmost safety standards, quality, and service. Contact us for a quotation.
Rides are weather dependent. Heli-transfers from/to airports require advanced reservation. In-resort rides can be reserved with shorter notice.

Accommodation

Want to learn more about our Luxury Hotels?            
Luxury accommodations in the Dolomites combine the ultimate in comfort and refinement. From five star hotels, Michelin star-rated restaurants, and pampering spas, just because you are in the mountains does not mean you cannot have a truly luxe Italian experience in the Dolomites! From the chic town of Cortina d’Ampezzo, a popular destination for the rich and famous, to the quiet and discreet luxury of San Cassiano in Alta Badia, you will find accommodations with credentials ranging from membership in the exclusive Relais & Châteaux to The Leading Hotels of the World! 

Want to learn more about our Hotels and B&Bs?
The Dolomites has a multi-faceted culture and history that is reflected in each village we visit, and we make sure to provide you with the most authentic experience of the region possible through the hotels and B&Bs we offer. Hotels and chalets are available in the larger villages, while agriturismos (working farms with accommodations similar to B&Bs) are more common in rural areas. And we always make sure you have access to inspired regional cuisine, and the best panoramas you can get in the Dolomites!

Want to learn more about our Mountain Inns & Rifugi?            
Rifugi – or mountain huts in English – are the classic accommodation for hikers, climbers, mountaineers, and ski mountaineers in the Alps. Set in spectacular locations high in the Dolomites, rifugi are accessible only on foot (with a few exceptions that are reachable by car). These marvelous establishments are open primarily in the summer, with a select few in winter, and offer meals and sleeping facilities.

The Dolomite rifugi are considered the best in the Alps. While some are dormitory style with bunk beds, many meet the standard of a simple guest house with private rooms and en-suite bathrooms, and each has its own unique character and charm. Bedding and linens are provided, hot showers are available, and meals are served in common dining areas – like a small mountain inn set high in the mountains with the most incredible vistas in the Dolomites. Whether you’re hiking in summer or skiing in winter, an overnight rifugio stay is not to miss on a Dolomite holiday.

To learn even more about rifugi in the Dolomites, check out our Rifugios in the Dolomites article, and learn about one of the best ways to experience these incredible mountains!

More info

Climbing route difficulty and skill levels:
Level 2: Advanced level, climbing grades 5- to 6-
Level 3: Expert level, climbing grades 6- to 7-  

Guided: Guide Ratio 1-2 climbers per guide

Still want more? Why not extend your adventure!
Dolomite Mountains offers fantastic extensions that you can enjoy before or after your trip in the Dolomites. Explore VeniceVeronaLake GardaFlorence, or Milan, or any of the many other magical places found throughout Italy. There's no more perfect way to recover from jet lag upon arrival, or delay your return to reality at the end of your trip!

Group Trip Dates

Trip name   Trip dates   Min persons   Trip status   Price    
25-30 Jul
2017
4
Available
€ 1.060
27 Jul - 3 Aug
2017
4
Limited space
€ 1.310
8-14 Aug
2017
4
Sold out
€ 1640
15-21 Aug
2017
4
Sold out
€ 2860
16-20 Aug
2017
4
Limited space
€ 950
16-21 Aug
2017
4
Sold out
€ 1.060
26 Sep - 1 Oct
2017
4
Limited space
€ 1640
26 Sep - 1 Oct
2017
4
Limited space
€ 2860
2-8 Oct
2017
4
Available
€ 2860
3-10 Oct
2017
4
Available
€ 1640
3-7 Oct
2017
4
Sold out
€ 950
10-15 Oct
2017
4
Available
€ 1.060
21-27 Feb
2018
4
Available
€ 2470
26-31 Feb
2018
4
Limited space
€ 1.390
25 Mar - 2 Apr
2018
4
Available
€ 1600
25 Mar - 2 Apr
2018
4
Available
€ 2480
4-9 Apr
2018
4
Available
€ 1350
11-17 Apr
2018
4
Available
€ 2470
18-23 Apr
2018
4
Available
€ 2480
18-23 Apr
2018
4
Sold out
€ 1.390
17-22 Jul
2018
4
Sold out
€ 1.060
1-5 Aug
2018
4
Sold out
€ 950
7-13 Aug
2018
4
Available
€ 1640
7-13 Aug
2018
4
Available
€ 2860
8-12 Aug
2018
4
Limited space
€ 950
15-22 Aug
2018
4
Available
€ 1640
25-31 Sep
2018
4
Sold out
€ 2860
8-12 Oct
2018
4
Limited space
€ 950
16-21 Oct
2018
4
Limited space
€ 1.060
13-19 Feb
2019
4
Sold out
€ 2460
27 Feb - 2 Mar
2019
4
Limited space
€ 2470
10-16 Mar
2019
4
Sold out
€ 2460
17-22 Apr
2019
4
Sold out
€ 2480
18-23 Apr
2019
4
Limited space
€ 1.390
24-30 Apr
2019
4
Limited space
€ 2470
16-21 Jul
2019
4
Sold out
€ 1.060
21-28 Jul
2019
4
Sold out
€ 1.930
7-11 Aug
2019
4
Limited space
€ 950
4-10 Sep
2019
4
Limited space
€ 1.310
7-11 Oct
2019
4
Limited space
€ 950
7-14 Oct
2019
4
Available
€ 1.930
15-20 Oct
2019
4
Limited space
€ 1.060
12-18 Feb
2020
4
Available
€ 2470
19-25 Feb
2020
4
Available
€ 2460
19-24 Feb
2020
4
Available
€ 2480
29 Feb - 4 Mar
2020
4
Limited space
€ 2470
15-20 Apr
2020
4
Available
€ 2480
15-20 Apr
2020
4
Available
€ 1.390
21-27 Apr
2020
4
Available
€ 2460
14-19 Jul
2020
4
Available
€ 1.060
19-26 Jul
2020
4
Available
€ 1.930
21-28 Jul
2020
6
Available
€ 3.780
29 Jul - 3 Aug
2020
4
Available
€ 950
12-17 Aug
2020
4
Available
€ 1.060
12-16 Aug
2020
4
Available
€ 950
2-6 Sep
2020
4
Available
€ 1.060
4-11 Oct
2020
4
Available
€ 1.930
6-10 Oct
2020
4
Available
€ 950
12-19 Oct
2020
Available
13-18 Oct
2020
4
Available
€ 1.060